Latest Crisis

I was contacted by the warehouse where the Ghia is in storage in Delaware: "Dear Larry, I am sorry to have to write this message. During our annual storage audit our warehouseman placed a storage vault in front of your vehicle, accidentally hitting the front of the auto and causing minor damage. The attached photos are poor, but show the damage. Obviously we will cover all repair costs but need to have your authorization to move forward. Please confirm that we can proceed and whether you need a local contact to come by to take a look at the car. I believe you had an inspection late last year on the car. Our apologies for causing this damage and troubling you with this issue. Best regards,"

At this point I'm a little frustrated that the car won't be done in my lifetime. So I'm in the process of screening a few Ghia restoration specialists to determine who best to finish the car while we are abroad.

Update

It's been over two years since I've posted to this blog. The reality is, in October of 2008 I accepted an assignment as Engineering Manager for a large petrochemical project in Nanjing, China. As such, the Ghia project, believe it or not, was carefully packed away - all the miscellaneous parts, for temperature controlled storage. We expect to be away from the U.S. for quite a while, so the project is on hold, indefinitely.

Here with are some pics of what was done most recently to the Ghia, before being placed in storage.

Momentum

Couldn't wait.

Installed the replacement ATF suction line. Added two quarts ATF, enough to prime the pump.

Replaced the battery ground strap. Had the wife turn the key to the ON position. Dummy lights for GEN and OIL lit right up. Sum-beech it's wired correctly!!! Key back to OFF.

Pulled out the spark plugs.

Pulled the oil pressure switch out of the engine tap. Had the wife turn the key to START - the engine cycled!!!! Goddammit first time this engine has turned over in 22 (yep!!) years. Rebuilt starter I've had sitting for nearly a decade worked like a champ!!! Oil coming out the pressure switch tap as expected. Shut the engine back down.

Replaced the switch in the tap, turned the engine over once or twice, oil light staying lit. Then turned it over and held it for 5~10 seconds or so. OIL light went OUT as expected!!!!!! Damn looks like the oil pump is doing it's job. Let the thing cycle for 15 seconds or so, as advised, to circulate the oil.

Wow that is a good feeling - so many things could have gone wrong. No oil or ATF spewing out from places I didn't want it to, happy just to have that happen.

Added 2 more quarts ATF and cycled the engine until the fluid came out the return line. Success!!!

Dash Install

Well it's time to start this car up. To do that you have to have an ignition switch, and to that you have to install the steering column, and you need the dummy lights for oil pressure and generator charge status on the speedometer. To install the speedometer you need to install the dash face so here we are.

Installing the dash face with conventional contact cement is a pain. You have to line up the face exactly right the first time 'cause contact cement is a permanent bond on contact (hence the name, right?). Tried that, and failed. Missed it by that much. 3M super spray adhesive is more forgiving; that's why you see the area masked off in the pics.

A heat gun is helpful in smoothing out bubbles and around curves but be careful: too close or too long a time in one place will cook the dash face quickly!!! There are a few muffs on mine which the dash pads hopefully will hide.

Now If It Will Only Run

Next to install, the steering column and ignition switch. Here are a few pics of the engine, installed.



And don't forget the 'Before'

70/71 Ghia Rear Taillight Resto

Here's a couple of pics showing the treatment of these bulbholders.

The holders themselves ususally are not in too bad shape and can be polished or if going for a really nice finish, can be disassembled carefully and rechromed. The touchy part is the top bulb reflector.

These are held in place by three integral pins that are peened over on thru-holes at the corners of the pieces (first pic):

The metal here is really thin. I tried to have them powdercoated. Some places will do what's called chrome powdercoating and while gives a high reflectivity it's tricky and takes good quality control. In my case I just had Paul's chrome re-do these and of course they do excellent work. I drilled out the pins on the holder and used SS rivets to re-attached the piece as shown:


Then I just cleaned it all up, installed new rope seal and body rubber and installed them:

Brakes

A few pics of the brakes. Disc brake kit (EMPI) in the rear, rebuilt and powdercoated the front brake calipers, SS brake lines.

Update on Paint

A short time after my post of July 4 - less than 3 weeks, Ed Henry did call me back and said that the car was indeed ready. We made an appointment to see the car and, sure enough and to my pleasant surprise, the car was indeed ready and was looking good. I only have one issue - the passenger side door is not mounted in such a way as to give smooth transition at the door to body gaps, but it is fixable. Otherwise, the car is looking very good, and Henry gave me a nice reduction in the price relative to what was originally quoted - all things considered, I'm very happy. Here are some pics:

To Do

Just a list for myself...

Install SS brake lines
Install wiring harness
Gas tank install and connect tubing and fuel filter
Trans and engine install
Install trans hydraulic system piping/hosing
Install steering column, instrumentation/dash
Final wiring terminations
Refurbish and install 'vert top frame (sending this out for refurb)
Install sound deadening doors/floors/body panels
Install convertible top
Install windshield; window regulators
Mount and balance tires on wheels, install wheels
Install exterior trim/bumpers, lights

Engine Work

Ah...countless hours of work and of course, no small budget.

The intake manifold and heater boxes are ceramic powder coated. The muffler came from CIP1.com, and is also ceramic coated. I rebuilt the fuel pump and carburetor; both were questionable condition. I sent the generator out for rebuild. All of the engine tin is powder coated matte black. It's tough to find decent OEM engine tins, especially for an autostick engine, but the Samba helped.